PREPARING PROPER HOUSING FOR ADULT HAPLOPELMA SP.

It's important to note that the procedure to be discussed below will create setups for smaller adult Haplopelma sp. (lividum, albostriatum, minax, etc.) that are typically 5"-6" at adulthood. I keep no larger species (schmidti, etc.) at the moment - the tanks required for such species would need to be somewhat larger to provide for their size (8"+ in some cases), but the rest of the directions as listed below should still apply. The tutorial below will suit other burrowing species with the same humidity requirements (Ornithoctonus sp., etc.) as well.

Necessary supplies:

Before we move on from here, it is necessary for me to mention that these tanks are in no way an idea of my own. Credit for introducing me to this way of housing Haplopelma sp., etc., belongs jointly to Martin Huber and Volker von Wirth, who have both kept such species very successfully in these types of setups.

Haplopelma lividum (Cobalt blue tarantulas) are incredibly popular in the American pet trade and wild-caught specimens can be found in fowl conditions at many pet shops - the first I ever owned was the product of a mercy purchase and was housed on bark chips with a water sponge and nowhere to hide. This tutorial will show how to properly house your Haplopelma lividum (and other 5"-6" Haplopelma sp.) in an attractive, cost effective, and space efficient way.

Step 1: Preparing the container

Purchase and clean your container of choice. I currently use Snapware "MODS" brand slim 15.4 cup food storage containers (they taper slightly towards the bottom, but the rough dimensions are 6"W x 4"D x 8"H) , which are available inexpensively from Target chain stores and the like. These come with lids that snap shut on all four sides and are entirely removable. The only drawback is that these containers are semi-opaque - many keepers will definitely prefer completely clear housing (for obvious reasons). Such containers are available here or here - I recommend either the 2.5 or 3.4 quart sized containers).

After getting the appropriate container home, wash it thoroughly (lid and all, inside and out) with a mild soap (I use standard dish soap and a sponge). Rinse the container several times to ensure that no soap remains and then leave it and the lid to dry. Once the containers are thoroughly dried, proceed to Step 2.

Step 2: Ventilation + Drainage

Move yourself, the container, and the soldering iron you should have handy to a well ventilated location and set to work melting air holes into the container. Starting around a half inch from the top lip of the container, melt holes using a standard soldering tip (roughly 1/8" - see the picture of the completed tank below for positioning), spacing them around 3/4" to 1" apart. This will be the only ventilation your Haplopelma sp. will require - done properly this limited number of holes will provide sufficient air flow while maintaining appropriate humidity levels within the tank.

Now comes the second set of holes. Head down to the bottom front edge of the container and, starting around a half inch from the bottom, melt five or six holes (similarly spaced to the ones above - see the picture below for positioning). It is not necessary to make holes all the way around the bottom of the tank as these are not for ventilation but for draining, as will be discussed later. Rinse the container again, if necessary, and proceed to Step 3.

Step 3: Substrate + Burrow

I recommend coco fiber (Eco Earth or Bed-a-Beast, for example) as it holds moisture excellently, is sterile (helps prevent fungal growth), and holds the form of burrows very well when compressed properly. I've used milled peat moss as well and have found that it can occasionally be subject to the growth of fungus, particularly if excess moisture is present. Top soil will work as well but needs to be free from any piney materials (some pines contain natural insecticides and, thus, should be avoided at all costs in tarantula substrate) and will be more susceptible to fungus growth than either coco fiber of peat moss.

Fill the prepared container with your substrate of choice - up to around 2/3 full - and insert a wood dowel, broomstick, rolled newspaper, or other similar object into the substrate at the front end of the container (where the drainage holes were burned). Pack the substrate well and remove the object, making sure that the hole made by it retains its form - this will be the starter burrow for your Haplopelma sp.

Step 4: Spider + Darkness

Now, introduce the spider (any specimen of 3" or more should be perfectly suited for this setup - I recommend smaller containers for smaller specimens) into the enclosure however you normally would and put on the lid. Take the appropriately sized cardboard box you should have on hand and, having removed one of the sides, cover the new tank and spider entirely. Leave it this way for the next 24 hours (or for several days, if needed - an adult male Haplopelma lividum I recently purchased took longer to settle than most of my others have). All Haplopelma sp. love the dark, and providing this simulated night will allow the spider time to explore, discover its new burrow, accept it, and begin its own construction work on it.

Try to avoid being tempted to throw in feeder insects at this time as it can add additional stress at a time when your spider will already be plenty stressed enough. Once properly settled your Haplopelma sp. will be quite comfortable in these types of tanks, which allow for the deep burrowing they would engage in outside of captivity, and should react less defensively to your intrusions (digging them out excluded).

Step 5: Watering your Haplopelma sp.

Here is where the drainage holes installed in the container come in handy. Roughly twice a year you will need to water your Haplopelma sp. How you do this is up to you - tanks can be placed into a larger container of water and be allowed to flood or, provided you it has been properly cleaned of any nasty chemicals, you could place them in the bathtub. Allow the water to rise to the same level as the soil in the container - let the tanks sit for about half an hour to an hour so that the substrate can absorb the moisture. After allowing the necessary time for the tanks to flood, drain the water (via those nifty drainage holes you've installed) and take the tanks back to their places. Don't worry about your spider drowning during this procedure - Haplopelma sp. are used to seasonal rainfall and your spider may even remain in its burrow throughout the watering.

Conclusion:

These types of setups are perfect for Haplopelma sp., mimicking their natural way of life very well, and will result in healthy and happy adults. They are also incredibly space saving, as three to four of these can be kept in the same space taken up by a standard 10 gallon aquarium (how I used to house my Haplopelma sp.). Properly maintained, most if not all of your spiders should be visible at the mouth of their burrows every evening, eagerly awaiting food or mates.

Closing Notes:

I have a suspicion that these tanks would prove suitable for Pterinochilus sp., Hysterocrates sp., etc., as well, but have not had the opportunity to set up any species other than Haplopelma this way as of yet. For Pterinochilus sp. the watering would be unnecessary given their low humidity requirements. I will attempt to experiment a bit with these species in the future and will post my results as warranted.

References:

VON WIRTH, V. & M. HUBER (2002): Einige Praxis-Tipps zur Haltung von Haplopelma Arten und anderen Röhren bewohnenden Vogelspinnen. DeArGe Mitteilungen 7(11): 14-23.

ARACHNOBOARDS forum thread "Haplopelma Lividium [sic]"